Step-by-step guide to reviving a Money Tree (Crassula ovata/Jade Plant)

Before you bin the pot, it’s worth taking a closer look. The money tree - botanically Crassula ovata, and commonly known as the jade plant - is tougher than it often appears. If you understand what it needs, take a few targeted rescue steps and adjust how you water, it can usually recover and push out healthy, vigorous new growth.

How to tell your money tree is in trouble

Money trees give very clear signals - mainly through their leaves and the smell of the compost. If you learn to read these cues, you can often pinpoint what’s wrong within minutes.

• Soft, mushy leaves and spongy stems: a classic sign of overwatering and early root rot.
• Wrinkled, shrivelled or dropping leaves: typically points to underwatering.
• A musty, rotten smell from the pot: the compost has stayed wet for too long and the roots may be rotting.
• An extremely dry root ball pulling away from the pot edge: the root ball is bone-dry and water will only run down the sides.
• A white, cotton-wool-like coating on leaves and stems: suggests mealybugs (sap-sucking pests).

"Yellowish, soft leaves almost always mean too much water, while shrivelled leaves usually mean too little - telling the difference is what determines the right rescue strategy."

First aid: what to do first

As soon as you notice your money tree is struggling, you need a clear plan. Rash decisions - such as adding more water “out of sympathy” - often make things worse.

If there’s waterlogging and rotting roots

If the compost is constantly damp, the leaves feel mushy and the pot is heavy, overwatering is the likely cause. In that case, time matters.

• Carefully ease the plant out of its pot.
• Shake off as much of the old wet compost as possible, loosening it with your fingers.
• Inspect the roots closely: cut away anything black, slimy or soft with a clean, disinfected knife or pair of scissors.
• Leave the plant with exposed roots to air-dry for 12–24 hours in a bright spot out of direct sun.

This “drying shock” may sound harsh, but it often saves what’s left of the root system. If you don’t remove rotten sections, the rot can spread again.

If the plant is badly dried out

When the root ball is dust-dry and has shrunk away from the sides of the pot, panic-watering from above won’t help. In that state, the compost barely absorbs water.

A gentler approach is so-called dunking or soak watering:

• Fill a bucket or bowl with water.
• Stand the entire pot in it until the water level sits just below the rim of the pot.
• Wait 30–60 minutes (depending on pot size) until no more air bubbles rise.
• Lift the pot out, let it drain thoroughly, and only then put it back in place.

The leaves won’t plump up immediately, but within a few days you should be able to tell whether the plant has taken up the water properly.

Tackling pests such as mealybugs

Mealybugs leave a fine, fluffy residue and like to hide in leaf joints and on fresh shoots. If allowed to spread, they can weaken a money tree severely.

• Move the plant away from other houseplants to prevent it spreading.
• Wipe affected areas with a cotton pad or cotton bud and a little alcohol (for example 70% isopropyl alcohol).
• Repeat the treatment every 7–10 days until no new insects appear.
• If the infestation is heavy, use a suitable pest spray or a soft soap solution.

"A money tree kept separately and checked regularly is the best insurance against hidden pest outbreaks across the whole living room."

Repotting properly: a fresh start for stressed roots

After overwatering - or when the compost looks old and compacted - repotting into a fresh pot with a free-draining mix is often the turning point.

The ideal set-up for a resilient money tree

Component	Purpose
Pot with a drainage hole	Prevents water sitting around the roots
Terracotta pot	Breathable and helps moisture evaporate more easily
Drainage layer (2–3 cm)	Protects against waterlogging, for example expanded clay pellets or gravel
Free-draining compost	Keeps air around the roots and lets water run through faster

A reliable compost mix recipe:

• 50% succulent compost or standard houseplant compost,
• 25% coarse sand,
• 25% perlite, pumice or lava grit.

After potting, firm the compost very lightly and wait at least four to five days before watering for the first time. Freshly cut roots need that pause so the cut surfaces can dry and won’t rot again.

Watering without guilt: finding the right rhythm

A money tree stores water in its thick leaves. That makes it low-maintenance, but also easy to overwater.

• In spring and summer, water roughly every 10–15 days, once the top layer of compost is clearly dry.
• In winter, usually only once a month - and at cooler spots, often even less.
• Instead of following the calendar, do a finger check: if the compost feels dry 2–3 cm down, it’s time to water.

"A quick finger test in the compost is more reliable than any watering app - and it saves many money trees’ lives."

If you tend to keep “topping up”, set a fixed watering day in your diary and leave the plant alone in between. It’s better to water thoroughly once and then let the compost dry out, rather than offering constant little sips.

The right spot: light, temperature and fertiliser

Brightness and choosing a position

Money trees come from sun-drenched regions. They like bright light, but indoors they can’t tolerate every kind of sun exposure.

• A bright window with a south- or west-facing aspect is ideal.
• In summer, avoid harsh midday sun through glass to prevent leaf scorch.
• In winter, a plant LED can help if the room is very dark.
• Avoid spots directly above radiators or by permanently ajar windows - dry heated air and draughts both stress the plant.

Feeding with restraint

A weakened money tree should stabilise first before it gets extra fertiliser. Nutrients are like high-energy feed - they only help when the “digestion”, meaning the root system, is functioning.

• From March to September, feed every three to four weeks with a heavily diluted succulent or cactus fertiliser.
• Don’t fertilise in winter, as the plant moves into a resting phase.
• Never fertilise heavily straight after repotting, as this can scorch fresh roots.

Staying on track: preventing relapses

Money trees forgive mistakes, but they need time to recover afterwards. Fresh, small leaves that feel firm are a good sign - even if the rest of the plant still looks a bit battered.

Small regular checks reduce the risk of setbacks:

• Once a month, check the compost and the base of the pot for excess wetness or extreme dryness.
• Look over the tops and undersides of leaves for spots, residue or tiny insects.
• Turn the pot slightly now and then so the plant receives light evenly and doesn’t start leaning to one side.

If you want, you can gently support older, woody stems with a cane until the plant is strong enough to hold itself up again. Many money trees pick up slowly after a rescue - then suddenly put on a noticeable burst of growth.

Another look behind the scenes of care

The money tree is a succulent. This group adapted to dry spells by storing water in leaves and stems. That’s exactly what often leads to misunderstandings: the plant looks thick and “juicy”, so people water again too soon out of concern. Once you remember that a money tree can go for weeks without rain in nature, your watering habits usually change automatically.

Propagation is also useful to know about: if a healthy shoot or an intact leaf comes away during the rescue, you can turn it into a new plant. Let it dry for a day or two, then place it into a small pot of free-draining compost. That gives you a backup money tree if the original doesn’t make it - and if it does recover, you’ll end up with two strong plants in the living room.